In no particular order.
The climate. I like a climate that changes, and Armenia's surely does that. Long, dry, hot summers. Winters are cold, snowy and nasty, but short -- the ugly part lasts just six or eight weeks. Springs are gusty and rainy, autumns are just delightful. And, as a bonus, the country is so varied you can drive an hour and be in a different climate zone.
Ararat. Looking out the window and seeing Ararat was... just great. It's just this big, magnificent snow-capped cone. The only mountain I've ever seen that compares is Japan's Fuji. But Fuji has suburbs climbing up its sides, and one usually sees it through a haze of pollution. Ararat stands alone. (And no photograph conveys it, so after this month it'll be only in our memories.)
Our house. We really liked our house. It wasn't big, but it was homey. It started as a two-room dacha back in the 1950s (not two bedrooms, two rooms) and then gradually grew, a room at a time, into an eccentric but comfortable three-bedroom house. It had its peculiarities -- some rooms were always cool to chilly, others were warm; the gas tended to go out in the middle of the night; the phone constantly rang with wrong numbers. But we liked it.
The house was in a nice quiet neighborhood and it had a backyard full of fruit trees and flowers, just big enough for little boys to run around in. There was a huge old grape vine, decades old, that made an arbor over the front of the house. In the spring, the cherry trees would explode into blossom for a few days, then the pear trees would do the same a week or two later. There was an attic where the neighborhood cats could creep in and have kittens. Evenings were quiet and we could see the stars clearly from our back porch.
We'll miss that house a lot.
Fresh fruits and vegetables. In season, the quality and price were excellent. Out of season, less so... but this gave a nice sense of the changing year, and we didn't much mind. Cherries, raspberries, persimmons, pomegranates: the fruits were just wonderful, and having them abundant and cheap for just one month a year made it better.
Related to this: Armenian cognac really is all that. I was never much of a cognac drinker, but we could get fantastically good brandies here for about half what they'd cost in Germany or the US. I got used to having a finger now and then; it'll be a hard habit to give up. Also, pomegranate wine? Is much better than you'd expect. It makes a very nice light, sweet dessert wine.
Colleagues. This for me more than Claudia. I had a great group of Armenian colleagues -- smart, savvy, energetic. I really enjoyed working with them, and closing the project office was surprisingly painful and sad.
Karabakh. We only visited Karabakh once, for three days, but it made a deep impression. It's a beautiful country, hills and mountains and forests and a new vista at every turn of the road. The people are friendly. It's also a melancholy country: walking around Shusa, formerly a city of 25,000, now inhabited by maybe a quarter that number, was pretty spooky, and reminders of the war are everywhere. There may be another war, too, and everybody knows it. Not exactly a happy place. But a very interesting one; we're glad we went, and sorry we probably won't go again.